Domaine de Montille Pommard and Volnay 1er Crus. Serious wines from an iconic producer

Classic reds from an iconic producer
"As with all good stories, this one takes us on a journey through time. The past, its roots; the present, the new generation; evolution, not revolution... An erudite blend, balanced between tradition and modernity...we dare say it is the continuity of change."
The family's origins can be traced back to the middle of the 17th century at Créancey in the Auxois region, with the Lords of Commeau. 'The domaine pre-dates the revolution; it was created in the 1730s,' states Hubert de Montille. It was re-named de Montille after the union of Marie Eléonore Chauvelot de Chevannes and Étienne Joseph Marie Léonce Bizouard de Montille, the grandfather of Hubert, on April 9, 1863. 'Montille' as he was known at the time, divided his time between the domaines in Volnay and Créancey and the Société des Agriculteurs de France, of which he was one of the founders.
Today the domaine owns 35 hectares of vines, essentially Premier and Grand Crus, mainly in the Côte de Beaune but also in the Côte de Nuits. 
Under the stewardship of Hubert and Etienne de Montille it has become one of the great addresses of Burgundy.
All wines are available now.
Pommard 1er Cru Les Rugiens-Bas 2018
$365.00 a bottle
Tim Atkin MW
When people think of a classic Pommard, they invariably point to Les Rugiens-Bas, widely regarded as the village's Grand Cru in waiting. This is a structured, savoury, typically ferrous expression of the terroir that sees 66% whole clusters and 40% new wood. Firm yet not rustic in the slightest, it has lots of spicy weight and damson and red fruit intensity. (Drink between 2024-2035). 95 Points
Jasper Morris MW
Two thirds old vines. This has been racked and returned to barrel. A brisk core of full concentrated red purple. Hugely concentrated, firm tannins, more new oak, so altogether a bigger structure. Impressively weighty but also light on its feet. Great potential for the long term. 93-96 Points
Pommard 1er Cru Les Rugiens-Bas 2017
$365.00 a bottle
Tim Atkin MW
Closed, dense, serious and compact, this is Rugiens Bas for people who like their Pommard to be intense, firm and ageworthy. It's spicy, layered and ferrous, with two-thirds whole bunches adding more nuance and complexity. It's a wine that will take a while to come around, but will be worth the wait. (Drink between 2025-2032). 95 Points
Jasper Morris MW
Two thirds whole bunch vinification and a little more new wood. There is a certain density of purple fruit in the middle and a more powerful if more backward behind. There is a depth to this not seen elsewhere in Pommard. Marvellous depth and for the long term, yet still engagingly accessible. Tasted: November 2018. 92-95 Points
Pommard 1er Cru Les Pezerolles 2018
$295.00 a bottle
Jasper Morris MW
Clear bright medium deep red purple. This has sheer class written all over it. Half whole cluster, entirely in the old vines and a third in the young. Sweetly ripe damson fruit with a velvet texture. Really very fine.
93-95 Points
Neal Martin, Vinous
The 2018 Pommard Les Pezerolles 1er Cru has a more detailed, purer bouquet compared to Les Grands Epenots, offering vivacious dark cherry, raspberry and pomegranate notes and good mineralité. The palate is medium-bodied with fine definition and finer tannins, and the calcaire soils plus the 30% whole cluster lend real definition and personality on the finish. Excellent. (Drink between 2022-2042. 92-94 Points
Pommard 1er Cru Les Pezerolles 2017
$285.00 a bottle
Tim Atkin MW
One of my favourite Pommards of the vintage, this is a focussed, mineral, chalky premier cru red that wouldn't look out of place in the upper slopes of Volnay. Crunchy, refined and beautifully balanced, it gains added complexity from one-third whole clusters and 30% new wood. (Drink between 2024-2032) . 95 Points
Neal Martin, Vinous
The 2017 Pommard Les Pezerolles 1er Cru matures with one-third whole clusters and the same new oak. It has a pretty, floral bouquet that opens with red cherries and wild strawberry fruit. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannin, very linear and taut but gaining weight towards the finely tuned, mineral-driven finish. Excellent. (Drink between 2022-2042). 92-94 Points
Pommard 1er Cru Les Pezerolles 2016
$285.00 a bottle
Stephen Tanzer, Vinous
(from the north side of Pommard above Les Grands Epenots on active limestone soil; vinified with one-third whole clusters and aged in one-third new oak): Good dark red. Tight aromas of black cherry, redcurrant and rust (there's a bit of iron in the soil here as well), lifted by a floral quality. Savory and fine-grained, with red berry flavors enlivened by saline minerality. Not a big wine but offers an attractive blend of sweet, savory and acidic elements. This minerally, salty wine finishes with big, mouth-dusting tannins. 91-93 Points
Jasper Morris MW
Includes a younger plot from the Chateau de Puligny plus recent replanting. One third whole cluster. This cuvee reflects hillside limestone rather than heavier soils. Dense mid purple, some lifted aromatics but over a more solid base. Middleweight fruit, typical of this cuvee, not really the full density of Pommard, some tannins behind but not too aggressive. Fair length. 91 Points
Volnay 1er Cru Champans 2017
$285.00 a bottle
Tim Atkin MW
There were only 50% whole bunches here in 2017 - it's usually more like 65% - but that was because yields were such that Brian Sieve couldn't fit all the bunches into the tanks. Pale in colour, this is very spicy and serious, with lot of pepper spice, savoury tannins, sweet berry fruit and racy acidity. (Drink between 2024-2029). 94 Points
Neal Martin, Vinous
The 2017 Volnay Les Champans 1er Cru matures with 50% whole clusters and 30% new oak. It has a very comely bouquet with open-knit red cherries, raspberry and wild strawberry aromas tinged with violet. The palate is medium-bodied with sappy red fruit, good acidity, fine grip and backbone. The finish feels very long. This has the sense of authority you look for in this vineyard. Excellent. (Drink between 2022-2042).
92-94 Points
Volnay 1er Cru Champans 2016
$285.00 a bottle
Jasper Morris MW
The lower part of the vineyard was frosted and the few grapes were declassified, the middle was somewhat damaged while the top produced a generous crop. One third whole bunch, 30% new wood. Rich full purple, the nose is more reticent than the Mitans. Quite impressive weight, then a much more tannic finish, not together at the moment, but with promise. 90-93 Points
Stephen Tanzer, Vinous
(this vineyard features more clay than most Volnay premier crus, but the crop level was very uneven in 2016 owing to the frost, with the bottom of the vineyard wiped out, the middle portion missing 30% of its normal fruit and the top "overloaded," according to Sieve; vinified with one-third whole clusters and aged in one-third new oak): Healthy medium red. Reticent but ripe scents of black cherry, licorice and musky chocolate. The dark chocolate element carries through on the palate but the wine also shows surprising acidity and lively notes of licorice and herbs. Saturates the tongue and palate on the aftertaste, with the tannins rather suave but serious. This wine is typically more about texture than minerality as the tannins soften, noted Sieve. 90-92 Points
Orders may also be placed to tracey@grandmillesime.com.au or phone (03) 9326 5737. Wines are available now.